🔗 Share this article

Whenever assembling a list of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate renowned high-end establishments. But, nestled prominently among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung area of north London.

An Unexpected Accolade

This little Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. The recognition has left the proprietors utterly astonished.

“I am completely shocked,” states the proprietor, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that led to their humble restaurant achieving such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its former feel. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the fare, and this restaurant more than succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender quality.

The meat is then added into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Titans

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for below £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can cost many times that amount.

A Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Dedication

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy establishments. “I am truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo outside its own premises. “I believe many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this culinary achievement.